Following the success of Andrew Jefford’s seminal wine book The New France published in 2002, Sopexa, the organisation that looks after French wine in the UK, launched the Absolutely Cracking Wines from France tasting. Chosen this year by 41 journalists and 29 sommeliers, the selection has become an annual event and continues to grow. Compared to the 62 wines shown six years ago, there were a total of 176 wines in the categories of house wines under £10, hidden gems £10 - £16 and classics at £16 - £30+.

Magnums are big, or so it seems. I can’t recall having seen quite such an impressive array of magnums in pre-Christmas tastings, or should that be such an array of impressive magnums. Size isn’t everything, apparently, but the sheer majesty of a magnum on the dinner table is a magnificent sight. Size also has its practical uses. The wine in a 1.5 cl bottle generally keeps better, so if you were thinking of laying the odd magnum down, champagne in particular is well-served by this tip. The only downsides I can think of are finding enough fridge space and, perish the thought, a corked magnum.