"The grapes arrive at the winery facing the rising sun, the natural slope is exploited to allow the wine to move by gravity, and the light, in line with the concepts of feng shui, compensates for the negativity of dark, enclosed spaces." I haven't mentioned the cow horn filled with dung, the deer bladder stuffed with yarrow or the lunar calendar. For lunar, read loony. For certified, certifiable. That's no doubt how many sane people regard biodynamics.
The most poignant moment of a recent fact-finding wine trip to Croatia was the sight of a giant pock-marked water tower at Vukovar on the Danube on the drive back to Zagreb airport. The Croatian national flag was flying from its summit as a constant reminder of a not-so-distant turbulent period in the history of this beautiful country. It brought home one of the main reasons why Croatian wine remains the dark horse of Europe, for the time being at least.